INTRODUCTION


In the fall of 2009 the Cross Canada Cycle Touring Society (CCCTS) announced a planned tour of Vietnam for sixteen participants to take place in November 2010, conducted by Pedaltours of Auckland, NZ. The response was overwhelming in that 48 members signed up! Thus there will be three groups touring. This blog is a rendering of the experiences of the first group who will travel between November 1st and 21st, 2010.

Vietnam is a fabulous experience. We stay at mostly 3* and 4* hotels and beachfront resorts and cycle away from the highway.

Our tour starts in Ho Chi Minh city (formerly Saigon) leading on to the beach resort of Nha Trang, historic Hoi An, and the imperial city of Hue. Thereafter we fly north to Hanoi and spend the next ten days exploring the scenic far North, including Dien Bien Phu. The Northwest is "the roof" of Vietnam, where the Hoang Lien Mountains (Tonkinese Alps) soar to over 3,000 metres (9,900 feet) and some of Vietnam's most spectacular scenery is to be found. This is definitely "the road less travelled"! Much of the area is sparsely populated and the mountains are still home to many ethnic minorities; the Montagnard women still favour elaborate costumes of brightly coloured skirts, tops and hats - each ethnic group favouring its own colour variation and design.

Sapa is an atmospheric former hill station with magnificent views of rice terraces and mountains; the temperature can drop to zero in mid-winter (January, when group three will be travelling).

We will travel by train, boat and bike as we follow the rugged Northwest route right to the border with China at Lao Cai; on several days venturing away from the civilised tourist meccas, cycling through traditional villages and staying in small towns with modest lodgings (Oh, Oh!)

So come prepared for the unexpected, for breathtaking scenery and bring a sense of adventure (and toilet paper!)

Thanks to the folks at Pedaltours for the text above and at the start of each days posts - NB There is no knowing at the start just how often we can update this blog since we don't know the availability of Wi-Fi, but by pre-posting the days activities all you armchair travellers will at least have an idea of what we are hopefully up to. Cheers.


Monday, November 15, 2010

Day Fifteen - Monday, November 15th, 2010 - Day off in Dien Bien Phu

Dien Bien Phu: Rest Day
This morning we will take a city tour, visiting the war museum and one or two battle sites (from the French/Vietnamese War of 1954) before exploring the interesting local produce market. You may like to spent the afternoon relaxing or swimming in the pool.

WE ARE FALLING LIKE FLIES

Today is a free day and over half the group breathe a collective sigh of relief. Only 5 out of 14 felt well enough to participate in the Dien Bien Phu City Tour. Actually Rick is well enough in the morning but decides to stand guard over poor Barb who is confined to bed. June starts out the day OK but her sheets are soon to call her. Jim, Peter, Jean and Mike are recovering, while George and Rick are wavering. Fortunately the intestinal bug doesn't seem to last longer than about 36 hours; however, the cold that is spreading seems to drag it's feet.

This morning is an excellent history lesson on the battles fought in 1954 by the Viet Minh to soundly defeat the French stronghold at Dien Bien Phu and end the French presence in Indo China. The English narration in the museum video is difficult to follow but is supplemented by a model of Dien Bien Phu and the surrounding area showing the French fortifications and the step by step advance of the Viet Minh through an elaborate system of tunnels. It gives a very clear picture of the tenacity and determination of the Viet Minh army. The French army was taken completely by surprise, not expecting that the Viet Minh would be able to drag all of their artillary over the very high and steep mountain passes. The Viet Minh used all the ingenuity they had, right down to designing bicycles that could carry up to 375 kg (photo).

Our next stop was at the bunkers which served as French Headquarters. While there, some H'mong tourists are delighted to stand and have their pictures taken with us gringos. Janet and I for once are taller than all of the H'mong people. The women look so elegant in their long black velvet skirts and behive hairdoos and embroidered head-dresses.

The third historical site we visit is the French A1 which was tunneled and dynamited by the Viet Minh with close to a ton of explosives carried over the pass. The explosion created a deep crater almost dead center in the A1 Fortification. The French trenches have been replicated in concrete as well as their bunker war offices.

The local market was just that "local" - not a tourist market at all. Everything and anything could be purchased, including silk-worm wine, snake wine and other "aphrodesiacs". The fruit was of high quality but more expensive that we expected. Durian, dragon fruit, pomelos, mangoes, persimmons, grapes, citrus fruits, star fruit, white pineapple, taro, ginger were a few of the things that we could identify.

We returned to the Him Lam Resort for lunch and a lazy afternoon of clothes washing, sleeping reading and exploring. Group 1 is on the mend as 10 out of 14 showed up for supper.
We're really looking forward to another 100 kms and another serious pass climb tomorrow!
Marg Hurley
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