"On today's menu is a boat-trip to the islands, where we can visit a fishing village where we will be rowed ashore in Vietnamese "Round Boats". There will be a stop at the Oceanographic Institute as well as Tri Nguyen Aquarium, with lunch at a lovely bamboo restaurant on an offshore island, plus time to swim and snorkel"
In fact all of this nearly didn't happen again on account of the recent storms - the fishing fleet has been harbour-bound for days now, but, fortunately it looks like the storms are over and a threatened typhoon has not come our way. We didn't get to visit the Oceanographic Institute or have lunch in a bamboo restaurant on an island, but we did visit the aquarium which was special by dint of its displays of local fish. Then we walked across the island on which the aquarium is located, through the nearby fishing village where we embarked on a bunch of fishing dories (slightly larger than a Welsh corracle) to be transported out to a boat that took us about half an hour to the snorkeling area where several of us explored the waters, which were still pretty murky from the storms.
En route a couple of masseurs lightened the wallets of the group with neck, back and full spine massages or bodyhair removal. George declined the offer of hair removal from his nose and ears which, she said, would "make him a new man"!
We returned to town for lunch in a Bamboo restaurant - our best meal yet, a seven course meal stretched out over two hours - and the rest of the day off to catch up on things - like blogging!
Photos TBA later
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Day four - Thursday, November 4th, 2010 - Mui Ne to Nha Trang
Total Travel distance 232 km / 143 mi
Cycling section 105km / 65 mi.
"We start the day with a flat ride through the highlands and finish with a fabulous descent back down to the coast. We cycle through the mountainous areas and long houses of the Edeh and M'nong people (the two main ethnic groups in the central Highlands). Then we drive the last section on Hwy 1 to Nha Trang, another seaside resort with another fabulous beach!
Back in the buses after too brief a stay at the beach - poolside breakfast with an omelette chef par excellence - now we are back on the bikes and it is hot (again) - up to 35 deg C plus high humdittidy - result = a few more overheaters.
After lunch we were driven up Highway #1 encountering a major delay around a bridge that was being reconstructed after the floods - fortunately we got through relatively quickly thanks to our bus driver who put on a display that had us all covering our eyes and hoping for the best - this country is not for the faint of heart!
The second cycle of the day, into Nha Trang, had to be cut short on account of major debris from the cliffside falling onto a long stretch of boulevard, again the result of the recent rains. Although it was now only 14 kms and downhill it proved to be a very demanding ride on account of fading daylight, potholes +++ and undisciplined road-users, so the group road as a peloton, closed up so as to prevent others butting in - with success. We checked into a really nice boutique hotel, The Asian Paradise Hotel, and it is!
For dinner we were bussed to a BBQ restaurant where small Hibachi-like units were placed on the table, fondue-style, but with sparks flying from the red hot coals. A somewhat different take on the multi-course meal! Then, to cap it off, an ice cream on the beach and home to bed. Are we having a good time or what?!
Photos TBA later
Cycling section 105km / 65 mi.
"We start the day with a flat ride through the highlands and finish with a fabulous descent back down to the coast. We cycle through the mountainous areas and long houses of the Edeh and M'nong people (the two main ethnic groups in the central Highlands). Then we drive the last section on Hwy 1 to Nha Trang, another seaside resort with another fabulous beach!
Back in the buses after too brief a stay at the beach - poolside breakfast with an omelette chef par excellence - now we are back on the bikes and it is hot (again) - up to 35 deg C plus high humdittidy - result = a few more overheaters.
After lunch we were driven up Highway #1 encountering a major delay around a bridge that was being reconstructed after the floods - fortunately we got through relatively quickly thanks to our bus driver who put on a display that had us all covering our eyes and hoping for the best - this country is not for the faint of heart!
The second cycle of the day, into Nha Trang, had to be cut short on account of major debris from the cliffside falling onto a long stretch of boulevard, again the result of the recent rains. Although it was now only 14 kms and downhill it proved to be a very demanding ride on account of fading daylight, potholes +++ and undisciplined road-users, so the group road as a peloton, closed up so as to prevent others butting in - with success. We checked into a really nice boutique hotel, The Asian Paradise Hotel, and it is!
For dinner we were bussed to a BBQ restaurant where small Hibachi-like units were placed on the table, fondue-style, but with sparks flying from the red hot coals. A somewhat different take on the multi-course meal! Then, to cap it off, an ice cream on the beach and home to bed. Are we having a good time or what?!
Photos TBA later
Day three - November 3rd, 2010 - Loc An beach to Mui Ne (near Phan Tiet, pop 169, 000)
"Quiet roads take us to the coastal desert reserve at Phuoc Buu. Lunch at La Gi, followed by more coastal riding as we cycle beside large sand dunes and more plantations of the bizarre-looking Dragon fruit. Tonight we stay at a beautiful Bamboo Village resort on the golden sand Mui Ne beach".
106 kms at 35 degrees and 100% humidity.
Once again up early for a sumptuous breakfast at which our hostess surprises with gifts of calendars and hats for the men or jewellry pouches for the women - very nice touch! The first and last quarters of todays ride are along the shore amongst large sand-dunes. Today we have our first casualty - Faye is barreling along at 28 kph with Jean and Janet when an elderly moped driver coming towards her suddenly turns left across her path, leaving her no room to manoeuvre and she collides with it mid-ships, falling off - fortunately she suffered no broken bones or joint injuries, just a large abrasion to the back of her left elbow and other lesser abrasions. Her rental bike suffered a broken spoke that was fixed overnight, and she has been able to continue fortunately, but it could have been very nasty.
In general the population is very non-compliant with the rules of the road, of which it appears there are none - only suggestions, perhaps. It is very important that one assumes the worst when mopeds are about you, and other cyclists too.
We visit a fishing village, a shop manufacturing outsized and rather grotesque redwood furniture from driftwood stumps, and a dragon fruit plantation (see photo). The kids all holler "HELLO!" and break into gales of giggles when we answer the same. The older and more adventurous yell "What you name? Where you from? How are you" I even thought I heard a "Mon ami". All learn English as the second language in school. (Hear that, Quebec).
The day finished with another great dinner at our 4-star resort on the beach. It's a bit ostentatious. We're told it's a joint government-private partnership. It has capacity for perhaps 1000, and this day our little band of 20 are the only clients. We're outnumbered two to one by the staff. It appearsd there was a lot of overbuilding in this area 2-3 years ago.
Photos TBA later
Day Two - November 2nd, 2010 - HCMC (Saigon) to Loc An Beach
Group One at the start of cycling
During lunch "the heavens opened"!Today we drive out of town for about 45 minutes to a roadside temple. Here we start cycling on a quiet road to Loc An beach, passing rubber, cashew nut and black pepper plantations".
Cycling section 60km / 37 mi.
Cycling section 60km / 37 mi.
HEAT, RAIN AND WIND
We are up bright and early for 6:00 am breakfast (not a problem since most of us are waking up at 4:00 am anyway) - this is our final expereience of the wonderful Bong Sen breakfast buffet. We hop into the two Mercedes (Dodge) Sprinter mini-buses for an hour and a half ride into the countryside where we meet the truck with our bikes all kitted out with cold water in our bottles. It's hot and humid.
Our guides are Phuoc (pronounced - carefully - Fook) and Binh, with Pedaltours chief spoke Richard Oddy riding sweep. Fook runs the shop in Vietnam for Richard, and is a bit of a character. He's about 50, has five kids (the national average) aged 7 to 20 and says he married late because no girl would accept him. He was so poor he could only afford a bike. We say "So what's the problem? We all ride bikes and the local girls don't object". Binh is in his early 30's and from the central highlands. A good herder, important with our group, and superb mechanic, essential in a country where there are no bike shops as we know them.
The first part of the ride goes well save for an uphill one km section of road under construction with patches of thick gravel, that unseats several of us. George, whose bike took a bit of a beating in transit, has lost the "Granny ring" up front and feels no shame in being "first in the van" followed soon after by Barb who is somewhat overheated (gotta drink ahead of the dehydation folks). We dream of a shady Banyan tree for lunch - no such luck but our shady cafe does have a large canopy which was fortunate since just before we were ready to leave "the heavens open" with a torrential downpour that lasts 30 mins. Lucky we aren't on the road at the time. Once the storm is over we set out for the second half of the ride. It's much cooler after the rain, but the wind picks up and it's right in ourt faces. We encounter a roadside weaving operation with two looms turning out mosquito nets, hammocks and fishermen's nets from a clackety shop like something out of Dickens. We would see the latter in operation frequently later on in the trip. Later we came upon a Dragon fruit plantation - the fruit starts off green but turns red on ripening, looking like a coral fish out of "Finding Nemo". Ultimately we arrive at our first Beach Resort, by which time the weather is stormy with squalls of rain. After happy hour we sit down to another multi-course meal, then turn in early.
Day One - Monday, November 1st, 2010 - Bong Sen Hotel Hotel, Ho Chi Minh City
After introductions at the Bong Sen Hotel we reassembled at a resort about 90 minutes drive away where we put our bikes together and tested our "steeds", or got acquainted with rentals, followed by a trip briefing by Bing and enjoyed a quick swim then the welcome dinner. Early to bed tonight in preparation for an early breakfast at 0630 am, then we depart on a 2 hour drive out of the city prior to a 60km ride to the coast.
Prologue - Sunday,October 31st, 2010 Hail, Hail The gang's (mostly) all here. Glory Hallelujah
The newly renovated Opera House
Notre Dame Cathedral, in front of which stands a statue of The Virgin Mary that is claimed to have wept and has since become evermore an icon for devout catholics (who make up ~ 10% of Vietnam's 83 million population)
The old and the new - looking out of the Museum of Reconciliation towards The Bitexco Financial Tower, a 65-storey tower that opened just today!
The Bitexco Tower boasts a heli-pad half way up. The building is shaped like a lotus petal, a symbol of Vietnames culture.
A Viet-Cong soldier exiting one of the Cu Chi tunnels near Sai Gon (now known as HCMC)
John Pringle is petite enough ("Tunnel-ready") to be able to attempt the disappearing trick!
No sweat, John - you're hired!
You too Janet! However one of our number got stuck on the way out. She said it was because of her "rib-cage", but we know better!
HCMC (Sai Gon)With the exception of Marg and Peter (who passed through here en route to Angkor Wat, Cambodia a couple of days ago), the gang is all here. We are ensconced in a lovely "boutique" hotel (the Bong Sen http://www.hotelbongsen.com/ right across from The Sherarton, a Gucci store and just down the street from Louis Vuitton, so this is definitely the "high rent district, yet we are only paying USD 65 per night for extra days. Yesteday's late night arrivals were first encountered on the veranda of the 7th floor breakfast room, where we have a marvellous buffet including both western and local favourites (dim sum anyone?)
We have not yet asembled our bikes (officially) although some Bike-Fridayers have done so since it takes them an extra 30 - 60 minutes to do so. The plan is to take the boxed bikes to a spacious place out of town, fit the rentals and reassemble the boxed bikes, test them and store them overnight ready for the first days ride proper on Tuesday. Janet and George have some concerns for;- 1) although our bikes were first off our Asiana flight they came out on the regular baggage carousel having to negotiate a sharp 90 degree turn, jamming up the works and doing GOK what to the bikes. That on top of 2) the Seattle "large baggage" handler rotating them end over end in the erect position - what was he thinking? And, of course, 3) the day of our flight being the day of the Yemeni bomb scare our bike boxes were opened and somewhat shoddily closed by TSA!
Today (Sunday) Jean had orgaised for ten of us to go on a full day tour that began around the downtown sites - Notre Dame Cathedral with the statue of The Virgin Mary outside (which is reputed to have wept real tears 2 years ago), The Central Post-Offce, and The Vietnam War Museum, before heading out of town, through seemingly never ending 'burbs, to a 6 or 7 course lunch in a riverside pagoda. Then it was off to the main feature - The Cu Chi tunnels, where we saw first hand a small, representative part of the ingenious 250 kms of tunnels and jungle booby traps that allowed a (supposedly) inferior army to take on and dismiss "Uncle Sam" - these poor beggars didn't stand a chance!
We have not yet asembled our bikes (officially) although some Bike-Fridayers have done so since it takes them an extra 30 - 60 minutes to do so. The plan is to take the boxed bikes to a spacious place out of town, fit the rentals and reassemble the boxed bikes, test them and store them overnight ready for the first days ride proper on Tuesday. Janet and George have some concerns for;- 1) although our bikes were first off our Asiana flight they came out on the regular baggage carousel having to negotiate a sharp 90 degree turn, jamming up the works and doing GOK what to the bikes. That on top of 2) the Seattle "large baggage" handler rotating them end over end in the erect position - what was he thinking? And, of course, 3) the day of our flight being the day of the Yemeni bomb scare our bike boxes were opened and somewhat shoddily closed by TSA!
Today (Sunday) Jean had orgaised for ten of us to go on a full day tour that began around the downtown sites - Notre Dame Cathedral with the statue of The Virgin Mary outside (which is reputed to have wept real tears 2 years ago), The Central Post-Offce, and The Vietnam War Museum, before heading out of town, through seemingly never ending 'burbs, to a 6 or 7 course lunch in a riverside pagoda. Then it was off to the main feature - The Cu Chi tunnels, where we saw first hand a small, representative part of the ingenious 250 kms of tunnels and jungle booby traps that allowed a (supposedly) inferior army to take on and dismiss "Uncle Sam" - these poor beggars didn't stand a chance!
[For a balanced account go here www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%E1%BB%A7_Chi_tunnels The official (somewhat biased site is http://www.cuchitunnel.org.vn/ )
Lastly a quick visit to an over-stuffed market - with a chance to practice "taking your life in your hands" by crossing the street in the face of oncoming 18 lanes of mopeds criss-crossing back and forth (if not actually going in the oposite direction!).
Incidentally we have two (unsuccessful) purse-snatching / pickpocketing episodes to report - the first involved Janet, when one of the mopeds going the wrong way down a one-way street on the sidewalk turned and came back towards us and Janet suddenly was aware of her necklace tightening around her throat, as also did her purse - fortunately the would-be thief was unsuccessful! 2) Rick and Dan, out with their wives, were walking along behind ('twas ever thus!) when suddenly Rick finds himself being imporuned by a woman of loose morals, grabbing him in the "unmentionables" - He, of course declined and brushed her off, only to witness Dan take the women by the collar and force her up against the wall, seeing her other hand in Rick's pocket. Again the attempt was unsuccessful, but these are just two happenings in the first day! Caveat traveller! Weather not too humid, sunny to start, turning to overcast. Nice to have a/c in the room and the bus. Cheers.
Lastly a quick visit to an over-stuffed market - with a chance to practice "taking your life in your hands" by crossing the street in the face of oncoming 18 lanes of mopeds criss-crossing back and forth (if not actually going in the oposite direction!).
Incidentally we have two (unsuccessful) purse-snatching / pickpocketing episodes to report - the first involved Janet, when one of the mopeds going the wrong way down a one-way street on the sidewalk turned and came back towards us and Janet suddenly was aware of her necklace tightening around her throat, as also did her purse - fortunately the would-be thief was unsuccessful! 2) Rick and Dan, out with their wives, were walking along behind ('twas ever thus!) when suddenly Rick finds himself being imporuned by a woman of loose morals, grabbing him in the "unmentionables" - He, of course declined and brushed her off, only to witness Dan take the women by the collar and force her up against the wall, seeing her other hand in Rick's pocket. Again the attempt was unsuccessful, but these are just two happenings in the first day! Caveat traveller! Weather not too humid, sunny to start, turning to overcast. Nice to have a/c in the room and the bus. Cheers.
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